Wool, Cotton, Spinning, Yarn, Plying, Loom and Flying Shuttle

Posted by PITHOCRATES - May 15th, 2013

Technology 101

Cotton and Wool are two Excellent Fibers that Entrap Air

Some animals migrate.  Some stick it out during the winter.  As the glaciers retreated some animals followed them.  Eating the new flora that grew in the earth once covered by the glaciers.  And man followed these animals.  And stuck around for the winter, too.  Because after eating these animals they wore their skins.  Which kept them from freezing to death during the winter.

What is it about fur that keeps both animal and man warm?  Air.  Air entrapped within the fur fiber provided insulation.  A thick matt of fur provided a lot of entrapped air.  And a lot of insulation.  Which worked better on animals than man.  As fur fully covered an animal while man could only drape animal pelts across parts of his body.  And had to supplement the warming insulation of animal pelts with the warmth of fire.  In time, though, man would figure out how better to cover his body in fur.  And other fibers.

As man thought more he did more.  Developing tools.  Like the plow.  That helped him farm the land.  Growing food.  And cotton.  He also learned how to domesticate and raise animals.  Like sheep.  Which grew wool.  Cotton and wool are two excellent fibers that entrap air.  And became the leading fibers of the Industrial Revolution.  As we took the raw fiber and turned it into clothing.

When Twisting Plies together we Twist them in the Opposite Direction of the Twist of the Singles

Of course, the cotton fiber grown on a plant is not that long.  Neither is the length of wool sheep grow.  Yet after processing this fiber we get long lengths of it.  We can put together these short lengths of fiber to make longer lengths of yarn because they have rough surfaces.  Which makes them bind together when we twist these fibers together.  A process we call spinning.  But before we spin we must first clean any foreign matter from the fiber.  And align the short lengths to run parallel to each other.  (A process we call carding.)  We used to manually comb these fibers.  Then we automated the process.  Such as using Eli Whitney’s hand-cranked cotton gin.  Or machinery in water-powered mills.  To the large mills of today.

After carding we get rovings.  Smooth bundles of slightly twisted fibers.  Which we feed into the spinning machine.  Which started out as a foot-operated spinning wheel in the home that spun hand-combed fiber that looked a little like cotton candy.  Where the ‘women folk’ sat at these machines for hours feeding this fiber into the machine.  Running the fiber through their slightly punched fingers.  Holding it back to let the spinning wheel stretch and twist the fiber into yarn.  The automated spinning mill pulls and twists numerous rovings into yarn at one time.  Filling rows of bobbins with thin yarn.

To thicken up these yarns for weaving into cloth to make warm clothing (more entrapped air) we twist these single yarns (singles) with other singles.  When twisting these plies together we twist them in the opposite direction of the twist of the singles.  To balance the twist.  Instead of tightening the original twist in the singles.  When we twist two strands together we call it 2-ply.  When we twist three strands together we call it 3-ply.  And so on.    The end product of this plying is what we use to weave into cloth.  On looms originally operated by the ‘men folk’.  Due to the strength requirements to operate a hand loom.

The Flying Shuttle removed the Width Limitation of the Woven Cloth

We weave on a loom.  Which basically holds threads of yarn in one direction.  With a lifting device to lift every other thread (or some other combination of threads).  We then pass another thread (on a shuttle) between the lifted and un-lifted threads.  Tap it down (or batten it).  Lower the lifted threads.  And lift the adjacent threads.  Then pass the shuttle back the other way between the lifted and un-lifted threads.  Then repeat.  Again and again.  A man’s reach to feed the shuttle into the loom from either side limited the width of the woven cloth.  The addition of an apprentice allowed wider cloth.  But the added cost of an apprentice made the cloth more expensive.  Then came the flying shuttle.

The flying shuttle was a ‘hands-free’ shuttle.  It flew back and forth between two boxes.  A tug on a cord triggered the mechanism in one box to propel the shuttle across the loom.  Another tug on a cord triggered the mechanism in the other box.  Propelling the shuttle back the other way.  The flying shuttle removed the width limitation of the woven cloth.  Consumed so much yarn that a shortage of yarn sparked the mechanization of the spinning industry.  Eliminated the need of an apprentice.  And allowed the mechanization of the loom.  Introducing the power loom.  That unskilled women could operate.  They mass produced cloth which lowered the price for the garment industry.  But it also eliminated the need of skilled and muscular hand-weavers.  Throwing a lot of men out of work.  Leading to the anti-technology rebellion of the Luddite movement (1811-1817) in the textile capital of the world.  England.  Where people went around smashing these new textile machines.

But the Luddites could not stop the march of progress.  The spinning and weaving industries became more mechanized.  Technology not only made better machines but it introduced new synthetic fibers.  Like nylon.  And polyester.  Which may not have felt as good as natural fiber.  But it offered certain benefits natural fiber didn’t.  It was stronger.  It didn’t wrinkle as much.  It held its color better.  And it was more wind and water resistant than natural fiber.  Some of these benefits were so advantageous that we blended them with natural fiber during the spinning process.  Allowing us not only to entrap air.  But protect us from the elements.  Just like the animal pelts early man draped over his body.  Only better.

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Food Surplus, Artisan, Guilds, Industrial Revolution, Mechanized Looms and Luddites

Posted by PITHOCRATES - May 14th, 2013

History 101

As the Middle Class grew Artisans joined Guilds to Restrict Entry into their Trade

For most of our existence on this planet we were hunters and gatherers.  Like the animals in the wild.  Dependent on our environment for our food.  Which was often scarce.  Leaving our distant relatives with a chronic gnawing hunger in their bellies.  Sometimes the environment provided so little food that there wasn’t enough for everyone.  So a great many went hungry.  And a great many eventually died from that hunger.  Such was life for hunters and gatherers dependent on their environment for food.  Then we started thinking.  And figured out how to farm.

As farmers we took control of our environment.  Instead of eating only what the environment gave us we grew what we needed.  And grew even more to have a food surplus.  To get us through times when the environment did not provide a good growing season.  Having control over our food turned that chronic gnawing hunger into a rare and infrequent occurrence.  Which established us at the top of the food chain.  And made us master of the planet.  Where we shaped it to serve our needs.  Instead of living at its mercy.

With a stable food supply we were able to do something else.  Something other than grow food.  We could build things.  And an artisan class grew.  Potters.  Shoemakers.  Blacksmiths.  As time passed the artisan class grew.  Creating a middle class.  Markets where people met to trade their goods grew into cities.  The economy grew more complex.  The cities grew more crowded.  And the artisans became protective of their trades.  Joining guilds that restricted entry into their trade.  By maintaining a maximum number of artisans in each trade.  For though there was more food than ever the fear of hunger never went away.

In Medieval Europe Cloth Production was Second only to Food Production

Artisans joined guilds for one reason.  So they wouldn’t starve to death.  Basically.  By restricting entry into their trade they limited competition.  This allowed them to charge higher prices for their goods or services.  And that healthy income allowed them to buy all the food they desired.  Whereas if other artisans were allowed to set up shop in town they could offer their goods or services for less.  Forcing other artisans to lower their prices.  Which is good for the masses.  Allowing them to pay less for the artisans’ goods or services.  Helping them to push off hunger themselves.  But not good for the limited few who saw their wages fall with more artisans entering their trade.  Hence the guilds.

But artisans had more to fear than just people trying to take food off of their tables.  There was something else that was a far greater risk.  Technology.  Which led to increases in productivity.  That is, producing more with fewer people.  Replacing some highly-skilled artisans with lower-skilled and lower-paid people operating machines.  And without a job it was difficult to put food on the table.  With the specter of hunger haunting them some artisans did something about that new technology putting them out of a job.  They fought back against the machines.

Besides food there was another basic necessity the people needed.  Especially in England.  Where it got pretty cold during the winter.  To live in the northern climes you needed to wear clothes.  Or die of exposure.  In Medieval Europe food production was the number one occupation.  The number two occupation was cloth production.  To make the clothing people needed to wear to keep from dying of exposure.  Highly skilled weavers filled factories as they manually worked their looms.  Making the cloth that others would turn into clothing.

The most Infamous Neo-Luddite was the Unabomber Theodore Kaczynski

Their meager production rate kept clothing prices high.  Then came the Industrial Revolution.  First they mechanized spinning.  Creating more thread than a weaver could ever use.  Then they mechanized weaving.  Turning that thread into cloth at an incredible rate.  Turning cloth-making from a skilled trade into an automated process.  Producing more with fewer people.  Lowering the price of clothing.  And reducing the need for skilled artisans.  Making the people happy.  For they could buy more clothing.  And still be able to afford enough food to ward off that gnawing hunger.  Everyone was happy except, of course, those artisans put out of a job thanks to those new machines.

Britain was at War with Napoleon’s France in 1811.  During war the home economy typically suffers.  And machines replacing people didn’t help.  Highly skilled weavers either lost their jobs.  Or had to take steep pay cuts to compete with other unskilled laborers working the new mechanized looms.  Lower incomes made it difficult to buy food when prices were rising.  As they typically do during war.  Pushing some people to the breaking point.  And some people rebelled against the machines.  Smashing them.  And burning them.  These people were Luddites.  Their rebellion against technology was so great that at times more British Red Coats were in England putting down their rebellion than were fighting Napoleon’s Grande Armée.

But in the end the Luddites loss their struggle.  By 1817 the British had put down the rebellion.  And the Industrial Revolution carried on.  Making life better for the masses.  The modern economy flooding us with new must-have products at reasonable prices.  And creating scores of new jobs the Luddites never could have imagined.  Still, their anti-technology philosophy lives on.  Perhaps the most infamous neo-Luddite being Theodore Kaczynski.  The Unabomber.  Who fought against technology by planting or mailing bombs.  Killing three.  And hurting 23 others.  Who they finally found holed up in a primitive cabin in the Montana wilderness.  Where he rejected all technology.  Living without any of the creature comforts technology gives us.  Like electricity, fresh water or personal hygiene.  Being a Luddite to the extreme.

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